John Delaney’s publications include Waypoints (2017), a collection of place poems, Twenty Questions (2019), a chapbook, Delicate Arch (2022), poems and photographs of national parks and monuments, and Galápagos (2023), a collaborative chapbook of his son Andrew’s photographs and John’s poems. Nile, a chapbook of poems and photographs about Egypt, appeared in May 2024. John Delaney lives in Port Townsend, WA.
Please visit John Delaney’s website: https://www.johnmdelaney.com/
Day 4: Santa Catalina de Somoza → Foncebadón (15 km)
Abandoned
We left in the dark. It was pretty cold,
but the day got sunny and hot. No clouds.
We passed through hamlets or small villages
that seemed poor, semi-abandoned and old.
Up we went through dry, desolate spreads
of low-lying shrubs. Rocky, dusty paths
brought us to a strict, parochial
albergue. We took two of the last beds.
Dinner at 8, lights out at 10. (Don’t even think!)
Be up at 6:30 and ready to go
at 8. 1 shower, 1 toilet, 1 sink.
A Norwegian pilgrim told me his best friend,
a dog (of course), slept with him every night.
Yes, his jealous wife left him in the end.
Day 9: Ruitelán → Hospital de la Condesa (15 km)
Iglesia de Santa Maria Real (9th century)
Halfway
It had rained overnight, started cloudy,
then sun, was generally cool. Up we went
all day, with beautiful views of woods, fields,
and mountains. A sign asked us for our dreams.
I wrote that I would hope to share poems
‘of natural love and beauty’ (heaven sent!).
At the top we reached O’Cebreiro
having entered the Galicia region.
Its 9th century church has ministered
to pilgrims ever since. Imagining
a millennium of soul-seekers here
where we stood—just two of a legion!
We each lit votive candles. Now I know
we are halfway home to Santiago!
Day 11: Balsa → Sarria (16.5 km)
Thanks
A beautiful day, begun in the dark.
Some of it steeply uphill.
The countryside was full of cows,
brown and white and black-and-white.
A dog tried to urge one to join the herd,
but she was loving her luscious grass.
Then the farmer had success with a word.
In Sarria we visited the ruins
of a castle where Queen Isabella
and King Ferdinand once stayed—
they united Spain and backed Columbus.
We people-watched while having dinner
and shared a bottle of vino tinto,
celebrating a birthday with friends we had made.
Day 16: Ribadiso de Baixo → Amenal (26.3 km)
The Longest Day
We tunneled through the dark of the morning,
dependent on occasional light.
We didn’t feel fresh and well-rested
because of the snoring last night.
Still, the path continued to draw us
through village and empty town;
everywhere, it seemed that shades were down,
so there were few who really saw us.
We slipped through forests of eucalyptus
and welcomed every moment of shade.
At one point we waited for cattle to pass,
then began thinking we had it made.
But, of course, it was full at the albergue
and so we went to a cheap hotel,
where we were lucky to dine as well—
and then finally call it a day.
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Poetry & Images in this post: © John Delaney
Published with the permission of John Delaney